A maximum of 10 days is what we had planned for both acclimatization and our summit day. That is quite short! There was however no other choice since the ascent of this beautiful 7000er after mid-August is increasingly difficult due to unsettled weather. So we spent just two days at 3,600 meters and then climbed to Camp 1 at 4,400 meters (14,436 feet). This camp is already set and equipped with tents, a kitchen and sanitary facilities. The meals there with local cuisine were very tasty, and everything was prepared fresh. “What service!”
From Camp 1 on, we slowly got used to the altitude. For acclimatization, we first climbed loxhna Peak (5,096 m / 16,719 ft) on foot, then with skis we ascended Rasdelnaya Peak (6,148 m / 20,171 ft), plus a part of Lenin Peak up to 5,688 m (18,661 ft). We checked the weather daily for our planned summit attempt on Aug. 26. Indeed, every day the forecast was getting worse. We were forced to take action and moved the summit day two days earlier.