- Dynafit >>
- Action & Events >>
- Expeditions >>
- Expedition Nanga Parbat
Expedition Nanga Parbat
STAGE 1: An expedition via the classic Kinshofer route along the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. The team was Josef Lunger (expedition doctor), Ralf Marsula, Helga Söll, Jürgen Greher, Florian Hübschenberger, Alix von Melle (participant) and Dynafit sportsperson Luis Stitzinger (expedition leader). After four high camps and a final 20-hour bid for the summit, the whole team reached the 8,125 metre top of Nanga Parbat.
STAGE 2: Luis Stitzinger had set himself the goal of attempting a new and direct-line ski descent all the way down the Diamir face. The Diamir face, however, is getting more and more snow-free, and there was bare ice where snow was expected. So Stitzinger went back to "plan B". He set off on his quick ascent via the Kinshofer route at 4:30 am on July 15. At 9:30 pm, he reached camp 3 at an altitude of 6,800 metres. Nobody had passed through camp 3 for two weeks, so Stitzinger had to figure out the direction to the summit by himself. After an ascent of 3,500 metres involving 21 hours climbing from base camp, just within attacking distance of the summit, time problems forced him to turn his attention away from the summit and focus on the ski descent of the Diamir face. After a total of 24.5 hours, the Alpine climber arrived back at base camp. And so Nanga Parbat now has a spectacular new descent route, and Luis Stitzinger has surely made one of the fastest ascents ever of the mountain.
STAGE 3: Attempt by Josef Lunger and Luis Stitzinger to ascend the Mazeno Ridge to the main summit of Nanga Parbat, and descend via the Kinshofer route down the Diamir face. The Mazeno ridge, stretching over 10 km, is the longest ridge on an 8,000+ metre mountain. To cross it requires two days for the approach, seven days of climbing, an ascent for only the second time of the Mazeno peak (7,145 m) and several unnamed outlying peaks over seven thousand metres. However, due to the bad weather and heavy snow, Lunger and Stitzinger could not achieve their goal of reaching the summit (again) of Nanga Parbat by this new route.
STAGE 2: Luis Stitzinger had set himself the goal of attempting a new and direct-line ski descent all the way down the Diamir face. The Diamir face, however, is getting more and more snow-free, and there was bare ice where snow was expected. So Stitzinger went back to "plan B". He set off on his quick ascent via the Kinshofer route at 4:30 am on July 15. At 9:30 pm, he reached camp 3 at an altitude of 6,800 metres. Nobody had passed through camp 3 for two weeks, so Stitzinger had to figure out the direction to the summit by himself. After an ascent of 3,500 metres involving 21 hours climbing from base camp, just within attacking distance of the summit, time problems forced him to turn his attention away from the summit and focus on the ski descent of the Diamir face. After a total of 24.5 hours, the Alpine climber arrived back at base camp. And so Nanga Parbat now has a spectacular new descent route, and Luis Stitzinger has surely made one of the fastest ascents ever of the mountain.
STAGE 3: Attempt by Josef Lunger and Luis Stitzinger to ascend the Mazeno Ridge to the main summit of Nanga Parbat, and descend via the Kinshofer route down the Diamir face. The Mazeno ridge, stretching over 10 km, is the longest ridge on an 8,000+ metre mountain. To cross it requires two days for the approach, seven days of climbing, an ascent for only the second time of the Mazeno peak (7,145 m) and several unnamed outlying peaks over seven thousand metres. However, due to the bad weather and heavy snow, Lunger and Stitzinger could not achieve their goal of reaching the summit (again) of Nanga Parbat by this new route.
Products Viewed
Find merchants